CHILE
My
country, my culture, my childhood, my memories...
Family:
A group of individuals living under one roof and usually under one
head. Webster Dictionary
...In
the beginning, Webster is right, we all lived under one roof...now
we are scattered around the world, but we still remain a family...
I
have just returned from a lovely trip to see my first born, her
husband and 3 year old daughter in Southern Chile. On the way, I also
stopped to see my Mother in the capital of Santiago
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My
journey started at noon on February 10, in Portland, Oregon. 18 hours
later I landed in Santiago where Paula and her family were waiting. It
was hot, middle of summer.
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| Cristian (L), Paula and Olivia (kneeling), waiting for me! |
There
is a strong emotional component that happens when I travel to Chile. A
couple of hours before landing, the sun appears on one side of the
plane, and the the moon sets on the other. And then one can see the beautiful
Andes mountains, with snow-capped peaks on the left, and
the coastal range on the right. And soft, lovely Chilean music is heard
throughout the sound system. On this trip I noticed that other
women, some older, some younger, became emotional as well when they
saw the Andes mountains. A few clapped, tears appeared. It was the first time that I became aware that others felt the same way I do.
When we see those mountains, we have come back home.
Arturo
Merino Benitez Airport is busy, even a little scary. Too much going
on, pickpockets mingle, it is hot and noisy.
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| The main floor at Santiago Airport |
We had lunch at the
upstairs airport restaurant, The Gatsby, and I became reacquainted with little
Olivia and her parents.
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| Olivia |
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| Cristian and Paula |
In the US I am Grandma or Mama to my grandchildren. In Chile I am
GRRRRRandma with a loud rolling “r”. After checking into
the hotel, I took a brief rest before we headed toward the foot of the mountains
to see Mother.
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| Hilton Gardens Inn |
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| On the way to Mom's, with the old familiar Andes mountains in the background.... |
We were able to visit for only a couple of hours, as they were
leaving for the beach. After a quick tea time and 4 generation
pictures, they were on the go and so were we.
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| Mother and I |
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| Four generations, 189 years between us ! |
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| One last look.... |
I was exhausted, as I
had been up for almost two days. I needed sleep.
Next
morning I met a high school friend, went with the family to the
fancy hotel pool ...
and then headed to historical Pomaire, about an hour from
Santiago.
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| On the way to Pomaire |
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| There are still adobe homes in this old town where time has stood still.. |
Pomaire is a potter's dream.
EVERY house, EVERY space has some clay art. There are hundreds of
vendors in this sleepy little town with dirt floors. We went to a
wonderful restaurant that offered “free” parking. Space is
limited here, so parking is a gift! The restaurant also offered great Chilean food, live entertainment with traditional
music, a swimming pool, never mind
if you forgot your swimsuit, you could rent one, and towels, and
anything else your little heart desires.
And a wonderful potter's workshop, where patrons can
take a clay class, complete with a wheel and got to keep their
creation! All for free, if you ate at their restaurant!
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| Cristian's "DNA" rat.... |
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| Showing their creations |
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| A potter demonstrating how to use a wheel |
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| This potter created a bowl,candlestick and vase in less than 15 minutes! |
It was so hot, we decided to take a rest on
the cool grass...no pets or picnics permitted on it, so it was clean!
When we were rested and cooled, we bought “mote con huesillos” a
traditional summer dessert, made of re-hydrated dried peaches and
fresh cooked husked wheat grain, in a light syrup, seasoned with cinnamon and
sugar. It is delicious!
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| Paula and Cristian at the restaurant in Pomaire |
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| Fresh baked bread and REAL butter, courtesy of the house.... |
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| Olivia requests "palmitos", palm hearts, but NOTHING ELSE, on the plate! |
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| Cristian's dish, meat, onions, eggs and french fries! |
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| Empanada, meat, onions, hard boiled egg, raisins, olives... oh, so good! |
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| Onion and tomato salad with "humitas", ground corn, cooked in fhe husk |
Notice that everything is served on a clay dish...of course...we are in Pomaire!
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| A harpist on a balcony restaurant |
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| Centenarian cobblestone |
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| Pottery and more pottery...lovely! |
We
shopped for trinkets,then we headed a few
more kilometers down the highway to visit cousin Maruja and friend
Bergie in Melipilla, wine country. Maruja and Bergie have been friends since they were young girls. They lost their centenarian family home, where my great grandmother, and her mother before, lived, during an earthquake
about 20 years ago. The church next door fell like a blanket over the
house, destroying it in a second. Nothing was left, nothing was
spared, except their lives and that of Cousin Maruja's parents, Cristina and Alberto. (Aunt Cristina died at the age of 105) The
old house has now been replaced with 2 prefab homes. The yard
remains, the pomegranate, fig and peach trees are there, the same
grape vine and jasmine from my youth are still alive. I can close my
eyes and be transported to a different time....
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| Cousin Maruja (R), Maria, and friend Bergie (L) under the centenarian grape vine.... |
After
a few of hours of catching up, we went to the nearby cemetery, where beloved
grandma Emilia and the rest of the family are buried. The Rousseau grave. It has been recently
repaired, after the earthquake, a couple of years ago, cracked the
cover. We arrived to the cemetery just after they had closed. A man
signaled us to enter through the side gates. We ran, and were able
enter and purchase some purple flowers, Emilia's favorite color, to place on the grave. We were the last and the only people at the
cemetery on that beautiful evening....
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| Olivia and Paula decorating the grave |
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| The Rousseau grave, since the early 1800's |
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A beautiful and old fashioned cemetery
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We
returned to the hotel very late. I put my head on the pillow and I
was gone....
Next
day we spent it resting, shopping, said goodbye to Santiago and left for Concepcion,
arriving around 1 or 2 am.
And along the way, more lovely markets. Miles of wicker shops.....
In
Concepcion, among other 'traditions,' I must visit my favorite restaurant, Don Beto, owned by a friend
of Cristian and Paula. He has the freshest, "bestest", most delicious,
seafood in the world. Lenga is a tiny coastal town near San Pedro,
Concepcion.
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| Lenga |
Don Beto's restaurant is right across from the beach, you can cross
the street and touch the ocean. When the earthquake happened, the
tsunami destroyed a large part of this community and half of Don
Beto's establishment was swept away by the waves. Since then, some
have rebuilt, others have made wood huts to make their money during
the summer. They sell Chilean pastries, clothes, seafood,
refreshments, toys, etc. The entire length of this “center” is
about 2 blocks.
Beto
used to be a diver when he met my son in law, Cristian, who was
studying at the university in the 90's. He used to bring him marine
specimens for the lab and harvest fresh food for his, then, very tiny restaurant.
He has since expanded, and from the looks of it, and the way people
flock to his restaurant, he has been very successful. The meal
starts with an appetizer of empanadas. Either cheese, meat or shrimp
and cheese. They are followed with sopaipillas, similar to Indian
fried bread...but better! Different kinds of dips accompany this
pre-dinner feast. Then the main food comes, and the servings are
monumental. A “bajativo” (something to help dinner 'go down') is
brought upon request at the end, usually a “menta” liquor (mint).
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| Sopaipillas, courtesy of the house |
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| Grilled reineta (white fish) with potato and mayo salad and sopaipilla |
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| Paila Marina (Seafood Soup) with all kinds of sea "creatures"and lemon |
A
new walkway has been constructed in Lenga that is parallel to the
ocean. Passing through this area leads to the marine center, where
Paula, in addition to teaching at the main University, is in charge
of the ''Estacion de Biologia Marina Abate Juan Ignacio Molina de la
Universidad Catolica de la Santisima Concepcion”, (a mouthful!) In
short, in charge of this Marine Biology Station from the Catholic
University :) Summer experiments were taking place, we saw shells, a
shark and other studies going on. She gave us a tour of the center.
The view is spectacular. They have an auditorium, classrooms and a
little outdoor chapel that is carved into the rocky hill, the altar
made of rock, with the Virgin Mary in a grotto and live, planted
flowers around. The pews are made of rock. Absolutely lovely!
Remember, this is a Catholic University, so a cross is in every
room.
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| The "Jefa" (Chief) of the Marine Center |
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| Outdoor Chapel |
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| The Chief checking the tanks |
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| Virgin Mary |
I
couldn't help but notice how some parts of the “old life” in Chile,
still remain the same. Horse pulled wagons for delivery of goods
making their way between the buses and cars, the mailman on a bike
or the guy that comes and washes your car in his "bike business".
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| "Car washer". He comes to your home :) He will vacuum and wax too. |
Paula
and Cristian have a new and earthquake proof house, after losing theirs in the last quake. It is 3 stories
high, made mainly of wood and VERY large windows to observe the
forest that surrounds them. Copihues, the native flower of Chile, is
found in their property hanging on the trees, a treat not many can enjoy. I thought that
it would be neat to see deer through the windows, but they don't have
deer there, mainly birds, like queltehues, which are cute and loud,
woodpeckers and others. There is a tiny species of "pudu" that looks like a miniature deer. They purchased native forest land and have carefully cut only what they need, so their house is barely visible from a distance and camouflages perfectly into the surroundings.
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| Front of their house, with deck and forest. |
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| Native forest |
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| Copihue |
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| Three story window and pretty thick forest |
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| Chef Paula |
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| Paula and Margarita, Cristian's aunt |
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| A view from the balcony |
We
closed the evening with Paula practicing her guitar, while singing
with Cristian, who was hanging their new wall clock, a gift from a
friend of Christine, Paula's sister
Which
brings me to the story of the clock. Joe packed it in a wooden crate and I brought it with me, across thousands of miles. It arrived, unharmed, without a scratch!
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| "Fragile as a clock" |
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| Unpacking .... |
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| It's not broken!! |
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| Cristian waiting for the clock to chime :) |
The
next day we headed to a tiny town called Quinchamali. A farming
community with homes that were built over 100 years ago. Some survived the
quake, some simply patched the cracks on the adobe, others started
new. There are about 2 places on the main drag where you can buy clay
trinkets, especially black clay, Quinchamali's trademark. I always
stop at a little hut to buy a 3 legged pig, a lucky pig that will
bring you prosperity and good luck.
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| The little hut and clay trinkets |
In
this town there are trees that were probably planted more than 200
years ago. Chickens, roosters and their babes are running in the
street, horse drawn buggies pass by, sometimes the “driver”
talking on a cell phone. The municipality is an old house, and the
workers (all 2 or 3) wear trendy uniforms and heels. They have a
little bit of everything. A little grocery store, a funeral home,
health office, lots of ice cream, sodas and a hardware store the size
of my living room. All this within one long block. What people can't see,
as they arrive to the little shacks to buy souvenirs, is the long history
that graces this lovely community.
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| Quinchamali |
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| Funeral home |
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| New and old transportation |
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| Some "local" residents |
From
Quinchamali we drove to Chillan. Chillan is a bigger city, known for
it's very large market. There are so many people in that market,
that it makes your head spin! It seems that they are all talking at
the same time, selling something or advertizing loud. We had lunch at
the Chillan Market. It is covered and people compete to advertize
their establishment and food as you walk by. On the way you find meat
markets, hog heads hanging, organ meats and meats from every part of
the cow, pig, chicken... The smell is a little overpowering. After
lunch we walked through the place and purchased some goods...the
kiosks go on for blocks. There is a side with just produce, one with
meats, one with cheeses, one with leather, other with purses,
clothes, shoes, wool, spices, etc. Fun to walk around and see.
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| Entering Chillan |
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| Beans, rice, ground corn, spices |
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| Valentine's Day was the next day! |
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| Paula with Cristian's family at the Chillan Market |
On
the way back, I saw the island of Quiriquina, where the political
prisoners were taken during the Chilean military junta era,
many years ago. Some never made it back or died trying . The ocean is
not kind in that section.
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| Quiriquina Island in the horizon |
On another day, we had lunch at an authentic Peruvian restaurant.. The service was
superb. I am not into strange, saucy or very spicy foods, but
Cristian and Paula know their menu. I did the usual, broiled chicken
(chicken a la plancha) and rice. Olivia had her fresh “real”
mashed potatoes and chicken, but here they were called “
chicharrones de pollo”, the Peruvian equivalent of chicken
nuggets,with real chicken. Chicharrones are small pieces of salty
fried fat. The chicken had no fat, buy it was fried in small pieces.
In every restaurant there is always “jugo natural”, natural
juice, made from real fruit. And, of course, the warm homemade bread
basket is brought to you, with real butter, compliments of the house,
in most establishments.
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| Aji de gallina, chicken with nut sauce and spice |
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| Tacu-Tacu, steak over rice and beans with fried eggs |
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| Pollo a la plancha con arroz, grilled chicken with rice. |
From
that delicious and VERY filling lunch, we headed a few miles away to
a resort by Laguna Chica (Small Lagoon) owned by Cristian's
university. In here, faculty and staff and their families can spend the day, have lunch
and swim at the lagoon. From the pier you can see the deep green
water on the foreground, with totora, a subspecies of the giant
bulrush sedge, in the middle. In the background, and hiding in the
dense twigs, brightly colored wooden boats with oars, and the clouds
above.
These views were my inspiration for a thread painting experience (another post) a few months ago.
Shortly after we arrived, the day turned into A
Maria-kind-of-day...and I was in heaven! Strong wind, heavy rain....
The
day ended with a wonderful party and musical experience at Paula and Cristian's home. Paula has
learned to play the guitar and has become quite good at it!!! Each
guest was handed an instrument and they all made noise. We played
'cuecas', the traditional song and dance from Chile, songs from long
ago as well as modern. And we laughed until we cried! It was a
marvelous treat. My heart was full. The family arrived in the middle
of the storm and left in the middle of the storm.
And
the countdown for the long journey home begun. As we sung our native songs, I could hardly contain my tears. What marvelous memories. Slowly I
start to detach myself from this country, this absolutely wonderful
lovely family of mine. I know that the other absolutely lovely half
is waiting to receive me back home...but it will never be easy, no
matter which way I go....
And the hardest part of the trip takes place... the goodbyes...and a 3
year old little granddaughter crying loud that she wanted to go with
Grrrrrandma. I could hear her screaming as I walked through security
at the Concepcion Airport. I entered the waiting room and I could
still hear her cries. Heart piercing. As much as I tried not to cry myself, it was
impossible. I leave behind three people I adore.
My
daughter wrote:
"Dear Mama,
We are back at the house and your plane is probably just taking off. Olivia cried and cried until she fell asleep (as we were passing by the mall), sniffling that she wanted to see Grandma. A total compliment--I've never seen her do that for anyone, not even me!"
I have been reminiscing much about this trip. I have become, once again, 'reacquainted', not only with my family, but with my long lost culture. I now find that I have renewed appreciation for the art, music, geography and the uniqueness of the people of my beautiful birth country. There is something special about the pottery, the woven goods, the lapiz lazuli and copper.... the scent of spices and the authentic foods. I feel that my life is rich in so many ways, even though my heart is always torn in half...
And upon arriving home to the US.... waiting at the airport....
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| Someone who loves me :)... |
VIVA CHILE!
